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Matrixyl

/ Synthetic palmitoylated pentapeptide; INCI 'Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4'; collagen-stimulating cosmetic peptide

SPECULATIVEN = 0 · TESTING PENDINGMW 802.10 g·mol⁻¹

ALIAS · Matrixyl (trade — Sederma) · Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (INCI) · Pal-KTTKS

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Research use onlyAny dose figures below describe what specific cited studies used, reported factually. Nothing on this page is guidance for human use.READ FIRST →

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§ A · Identity

Primary sequencePal-KTTKS

MW · 802.10CLASS · Synthetic palmitoylated pentapeptide; INCI 'Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4'; collagen-stimulating cosmetic peptideCATEGORY · Cosmetic

Tier 4 by the schema's clinical-evidence ladder, but the most-studied of the palmitoyl cosmetic peptides. Multiple topical-efficacy and dermatology-research papers (Robinson 2005 in International Journal of Cosmetic Science; Watson 2009 cosmeceutical review in British Journal of Dermatology) discuss the ingredient. None are Phase 3 pharmaceutical trials in the regulatory sense.

§ B · Mechanism of action

Pal-KTTKS is the palmitoylated form of the matrikine pentapeptide KTTKS, a fragment of the C-terminal propeptide of type I procollagen. The unconjugated KTTKS pentapeptide stimulates extracellular matrix synthesis (collagen I, collagen III, fibronectin) in cultured dermal fibroblasts; palmitoylation at the N-terminus increases lipophilicity and is intended to improve passive penetration through the stratum corneum when applied topically.

§ C · Human clinical evidence

Tier 4. Robinson 2005 (Int J Cosmet Sci) reported a 12-week split-face topical study of Pal-KTTKS in a moisturiser base versus vehicle; the active arm produced greater improvement in fine lines and skin roughness scores by image analysis. Watson 2009 (Br J Dermatol) reviewed Pal-KTTKS in the broader cosmeceutical-peptide context and discussed the pro-collagen-fragment matrikine rationale.

§ D · Primary literature

PubMed18492182Robinson LR et al. — Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin · International Journal of Cosmetic Science · human-observationalTwelve-week split-face study of Pal-KTTKS-containing moisturiser versus vehicle; the Pal-KTTKS arm produced greater image-analysis-measured improvement in fine lines and skin roughness in photoaged forearm and facial skin.Limitations: Industry-authored (Procter & Gamble); image-analysis endpoints; modest effect size; vehicle-only control rather than active-ingredient comparator.2005

PubMed19438432Watson REB et al. — A cosmetic 'anti-ageing' product improves photoaged skin: a double-blind, randomized controlled trial · British Journal of Dermatology · human-observationalDouble-blind RCT of a cosmeceutical formulation containing Pal-KTTKS plus other actives versus vehicle in photoaged skin; the active arm produced statistically greater clinical improvement in wrinkle scores over six months.Limitations: Multi-ingredient formulation (Pal-KTTKS not isolated); industry collaboration; cosmeceutical rather than pharmaceutical regulatory framing.2009

§ F · Safety signal

Topical application has been broadly tolerated in published cosmetic-trial settings; no consistent safety signal at typical formulation concentrations (around 3 ppm to a few hundred ppm). No systemic exposure data, which is consistent with the topical small-molecule regulatory framework rather than a clinical safety database.

§ H · Regulatory status

Regulatory status

FDA status:: Not FDA-approved

§ I · Notable gaps and controversies

Most published data on Pal-KTTKS come from industry-collaborated dermatology research; independent academic replication is relatively limited. Effect sizes are modest and image-analysis-driven rather than histological in most clinical-grade studies.